Posts Tagged ‘rpm’
I bought my 1998 4 cylinder 5 speed dakota which had hit a deer and it got fixed and a new engine then I bought it not to long ago May 2008 then I got hit in the front right but I got it fixed and it ran perfect but know when i am going down the road and I hit a bump it wants to die and starts sputtering and backfiring sometimes it actually dies then I just pop the clutch and it will start but continues to do that and will only stop when I come to a stop and it idles but if I bring the RPM's up it will start again with the sputtering and back firing and trying to die!!!!! on of my buddys has a ranger and his started doing something like that and all he did was reset his fuel module by flipping a switch under on of his cup holders can somebody tell me how to reset mine and if you don't think that's what it is could you tell me whats wrong and how to fix it? I have also checked the whole truck for shorts but didn't find any. HELP ME PLEASE
I am reading that, an engine analyzer can identify whether engine is misfiring or skipping firing at low rpm. While, i know about the OBD-II code readers which are used to read the engine check codes. Wondering will the OBD-II code reader is same as engine analyzer? Will Auto zone help me find it about engine firing?
hi there i just bought a 94 model cr 125.when riding for the first time it ran perfect until i opened it up over 3/4 throttle in 5th gear, it just bogged then cut out.i pulled in clutch let the revs drop then let clutch out an the engine fired back up an ran fine in lower gears.i had checked air filter,plug and fuel mixture before ride all was ok.oh yeah also noticed bike does not tick over it cuts out and backfires on first 3 to 4 kick overs.any ideas please
thank for the tips guys really helpful cheers. any way after further inspection have found the spark plug not to be the one recomended for the bike however it is compatable. also found reed block assembly is missing the two metal stoppers [unsure of correct terminoligy] could this cause to much air intake at peak rpm or would this effect all gears?
For reference it is a 2001 Nissan Frontier 2.4l, 4 cylinder, standard transmission
1. It has died 3 times, while driving, and wouldn't start again each time
2. When it gets ready to die the stereo 1st loses power, then headlights and instrument panel dim, then the speedometer,gas meter, and rpm gauge all go jumpy and freaky.
3. Once it gets to this point stepping on the accelerator causes no acceleration, but instead a violent vibration until you get off the pedal.
4. With no way to accelerate once the truck slows to around 20 mph, it dies completely.
We thought battery, and battery was dead so we bought new battery; then it died again a week later, so we think alternator, so we changed alternators and the battery again, then it dies again.
Then just for kickers, when I went back the after the third time dying to tow the truck once again...I get in the truck and it fires right up???
............ANYBODY GOT ANYTHING???????????????
Ok. It's a '98 vw beetle with a brand new battery and 3/4 tank of gas.
We lost power- one battery cable was very loose so we tightened it. Car would then start but idle with very low RPM and would immediately die if you hit the gas. After a few days of sitting, the engine won't fire and the engine seems to shake the whole car and sputter. We were told that it might be bad gas so we bought dry gas and put it in the tank today---didn't work. Could it be spark plugs? Fuel filter? Something else?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi everyone! I have a 2000 Honda Civic SI and the RPM's are running pretty low- below 1000. My check engine light is on. I took it to a mechanic and he said that his machine is reading that its the oxygen sensor- he changed both (twice to make sure one wasn't faulty) and the light is still on. The machine at Autozone gave a code for o2 sensor or vacuum leak. I'm guessing its a vacuum leak? How can I check and fix it? People have told me to spray the hoses with wd40 or H20- but then someone said the fluid would be sucked into the engine and hurt the car or catch it on fire. Isn't there a vacuum sealant that you can buy to fix it or should I change the hoses? I am pretty good at figuring things out- but I just need some guidance. Any help would be greatly appreciated! So-
1) is it the 02 sensor making my car idle low?
2) Do you think its a vacuum leak?
3) How can I check my vacuum hoses?
4) How do I fix my vacuum hoses?
5) What else could make my car idle low?
Best answer gets 5 STARS
I am helping a friend work on his truck. The truck is a 1970 but it is a conglomeration of parts from various trucks. The P.O. told him the motor was a 302 and recently it died on him. The truck will only run when you hold the throttle about half way open. The carb is a brand new aftermarket holly that has been on there for less than a month. The truck runs fine with the throttle open. He replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor to see if that was why it would not idle and then it would not run . He called me to look at it and I checked it and found 2 wires were switched so I switched them back. This made it run worse and backfire. We looked in the manual and found that a 351/400 had a different firing order. We tried that order and it runs smoother with the throttle open but still does not idle. We replaced the brain box and coil but it made no difference. We need to tell which motor it is so we can buy a fuel pump for it. There are no stickers under the hood or on the motor.
Some more info...There are only 2 vacuum lines. One for the tranny and one for the vacuum advance. Both have been replaced. The new module and coil are the same for all the duraspark for V8's. (I checked part numbers for both engines) I pulled the fuel line off the carb and stuck it in a bottle. I had him turn the motor over and it spurts gas once per revolution. The filter is new and it is one of the clear ones. I can see that it stays 1/2 to 3/4 of the way full when the motor is running. I put a timing light on it. With the motor running fast enough to be stable (I am guessing aroun 2000 rpm) there are 3 timing marks visible. the center one lines up with the pointer.
The 351 and 400 take different fuel pumps so we need to know which motor this is before we buy one.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. He can't afford to take it to the shop anymore so I would like to help him.