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Posts Tagged ‘piston’

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I Am posting this to voice my experience for anyone who needs help. A couple months ago, I had a 5 year old Sears/Craftsman 2-stroke leafblower seize, because my sister forgot to put oil in the gas.... Used it for a while and it seized, after sounding very unhealthy producing an almost hollow sound and lots more vibration. After it stopped, if was difficult to pull the starter cord, but not impossible. If I pulled it fast enough, you could hear the engine firing but it couldnt overcome the friction. So I took some 10W-40, and poured a bit into the exhaust, and ran a heavy 20-1 2-stroke oil mixture in the gas. It took a lot of persuasion, and a quarter-bottle of oil before it finally was able to run on its own. I kept putting some down the exhaust every 5 minutes till it seemed ok. After that I run it on a 30-1 mixture instead of the normal 40-1, and it seems fine. With a lawnmower, take the cylinder head off, and rub oil around the cylinder with the piston at Bottom dead center, and fill the crankcase. With luck, it will come unseized. Remember, it just takes a little patience, and a lot of oil/

i,ve come too a dead end with my dirt bike, the engine refuses to fire up.i,ve changed the air filter,plug and had the carb cleaned but it still wont run.even when i try to bump start it it just bogs no matter what throttle position. ive checked the spark which is fine,ive even sprayed easy start into directly into the carb but still wont kick over.ive checked the reeds, looked into the cylinder through the reed intake which looks fine there's no oil in the cylinder or on plug. the only thing i think it could be now is the piston rings, there is compression there but how much i don't no? also back fires occasionally. could someone give me a point in the right direction before i strip down the head thanks.
oh buy the way its got good fuel in it and ive not long got so dont know how old the piston and rings are.
ive tested compression with my finger and it does push air past so am even more baffled? im gonna test it with a guage just to be sure but any other ideas gladly welcolm thanks

Last week my ML's 320 engine broke.. When I started it in the afternoon, it sounded like it was not firing on all cylinders and my engine light was blinking. The engine ran very rough for a minute and then it stopped. Towed it to a mechanic and found out that the exhaust valve broke off on it and it damaged the piston and the cylinder.. Got a used engine and put it in, started it up and took it for a test drive. Drove 1/2 mile and something let go in that engine. It has a big knocking sound in it.. Checked the codes and it showed that it was not firing on cylinder 1 & 4... Does anyone know what could cause both of the engines to have almost the same problem, or could this be just a coincident. I still don't know what exactly happened to the new engine but it sounds like a valve or a connecting rod is loose or broken.. Actually my mechanic started the truck this morning and the knocking sound went away for 30 seconds and it came back on... Any ides? Would a electronic problem in the truck cause some internal damage like this?

HELP! I have a 95 gmc 4x4... sank it underwater. replaced fuel pump assembly, distributer cap, rotor, and spark module,ignition switch, computer, fuel pump relay, plugs, and wires. had only 80 psi compression, so I bought a 92 chevy 350. mine had tbi, and the new motor had a 850 4 barrel so i stripped it down to the block and heads to keep my tbi. i changed over all sensors. i now have 150 psi of compression, i have good fuel spray( i drained tank and removed water). I have spark at the plugs, but will not crank. it is definately in time... I had in on tdc on #1 piston on compression stroke and rotor continues to be at #1 plug( i did try 180 out to be sure). i accidentally tried cranking without the neg side of battery grounded and the but it still tried to crank. it burnt then engine ground into so i replaced in with #6 gauge ground and reatached the neg side terminal. motor turns over but wont crank( it tries to really bad:( ). Its my origanal starter, and wondering if it could be pulling too many amps and robbing the ignition coil from power. the coil ohms out good, but cant check the ac output to see if its enough spark to ignite fuel....

I bought it from a guy that runs a small engine shop(i.e. lawn mowers, small cc scooters, dirtbikes) and it didnt have a big high end kick like it should and he told me to clean air filter(did and it gave higher speed) and chip off carbon residue on the muffler AND/OR piston. it was kind of a blur on what he actually said to clean so i thought i'd ride it a while(4 weeks, 1 mile a day and 10-20 miles a couple times) to break it in. few days ago i thought "Hmmm, i wonder what he said" so i took the engine apart, cleaned everything, used 2stroke oil to lube up things and put it back together. (im thinking i screwed up by putting on the oil :imo:) i tested the spark. it has a clean tip aswell. compression is good. the primer bubble doesnt expand after pushing it in. any answers would be helpful. i use this to get to work, school and across the city.

Hi,

I have a 1970 Honda CB350 that doesn't run right. It was given to me to keep if I could get it running, and so I worked onm it a while and got it to run. But there is one problem...When I start it, only the left piston fires, leaving the right one not firing at all.

So I took the spark plug out on the right side, held it in my hand and kicked the engine over, and it didn't shock me at all. So, I assumed that the coil was bad and bought one on ebay. Well, days go by and I finally got it in the mail, I put it on the bike, hooked it all back up, and started it. Well guess what---same thing. Only the left side fired. So I cleaned all of the connections that hook up to the coil, and tried starting it again. But when I started it this time, both pistons fired together for about 5 secs, and the right one quit firing again. So I killed the engine, started it again, and held my hand around the spark plug cap, and felt for a shock, and only got a good shock here and there. Help! PLZ!

I just bought a '99 dodge caravan and it had a problem.

It had a fuel injector malfunction code so the injector was replaced but shortly after it would not start. I did a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap rotor and fuel filter.

Ran like crap.

Took it to a mechanic who said that the injector that had just been replaced was stuck open so I took it back to the shop that replaced the injector.

Halfway to the shop sparks started flying out of the tailpipe and a burst of fire. At which point the engine actually started to run like it had some power.

But, now it smokes and I want some opinions on what may have broken that has caused it to start smoking.

The smoke immediately after the fire incident was black but now it's blowing smoke that looks like oil burning.
The van only has 110,000 miles on it so I don't think the oil burning is age.

Could everyone who answers please cast a vote for:

1. Piston Rings
2. Valve seals
3. Other

I've already asked this once, but I'm hoping to get a concensus so I'm trying again.

I just bought a '99 dodge caravan and it had a problem.

It had a fuel injector malfunction code so the injector was replaced but shortly after it would not start. I did a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap rotor and fuel filter.

Ran like crap.

Took it to a mechanic who said that the injector that had just been replaced was stuck open so I took it back to the shop that replaced the injector.

Halfway to the shop sparks started flying out of the tailpipe and a burst of fire. At which point the engine actually started to run like it had some power.

But, now it smokes and I want some opinions on what may have broken that has caused it to start smoking.

The smoke immediately after the fire incident was black but now it's blowing smoke that looks like oil burning.

The van only has 110,000 miles on it so I don't think the oil burning is age.

Could everyone who answers please cast a vote for:

1. Piston Rings
2. Valve seals
3. Other

I recently did a bottom end rebuild on my Alero GLS after spinning a bearing. This happened at about 103k miles. I didn't do a full rebuild after inspecting the rest of the engine because surprisingly there wasn't too much wear on anything else... I say surprisingly because I found 1/4 inch of sludge on the bottom of my oil pan >:(... (bought the car with about 100k) But anyways, after 1500 miles the engined died on me again... After ripping the thing out this time, i found my cam shaft snapped in half! (Why the hell was it hallow??) So i got a new cam and put it all together again.
Once i fired it up, it sounded horrible, i had one of my pistons misfiring, sounded like a stuck valve lifter, and the exhaust really stunk. So i took off the manifolds, rebuild the valve lifters (hoping it would solve my firing problem) and put it back together and sounded the same... I took it apart again to replace the valve lifters and that solved that problem. I think found a problem with my spark plug wires. I have extremely high resistance in the cord that my piston wasn't firing. I replaced those and it still is not running right. So i moved the 5th piston spark plug (misfiring one) too the 4th cylinder... hooked up the computer reader and now my 3rd piston is misfiring a lot...So today i picked up new spark plugs and now it sounds a little better but it still chugs in the low RPMs... WTF?! I have a friend that teaches a mechanics class at a college and he is baffled... We are out of ideas.... It is odd though how it runs fine above about 1500RPMs, but below that it chugs hard and exhaust sounds horrible... (smell is gone though)

Sorry for such a long post, but PLEASE help me... I have no idea what to do now.

I've already asked this once, but I'm hoping to get a concensus so I'm trying again.

I just bought a '99 dodge caravan and it had a problem.

It had a fuel injector malfunction code so the injector was replaced but shortly after it would not start. I did a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap rotor and fuel filter.

Ran like crap.

Took it to a mechanic who said that the injector that had just been replaced was stuck open so I took it back to the shop that replaced the injector.

Halfway to the shop sparks started flying out of the tailpipe and a burst of fire. At which point the engine actually started to run like it had some power.

But, now it smokes and I want some opinions on what may have broken that has caused it to start smoking.

The smoke immediately after the fire incident was black but now it's blowing smoke that looks like oil burning.

The van only has 110,000 miles on it so I don't think the oil burning is age.

Could everyone who answers please cast a vote for:

1. Piston Rings
2. Valve seals
3. Other