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Posts Tagged ‘fuel filter’

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The truck set for a year I bought it from a friend It needed a radiator. Got one. a battery. Got one of those too. filled it with antifreeze. Took off in it. I filled the gas tank checked the oil . It has ran great, great gas mileage drives very good. No misses sputters or anything. Fires right up in the mornings, High idle kicks in and then goes off perfectly. I drove to the lil store on the corner, less than 3/4 of a mile, killed the truck went inside came out and damn it, antifreeze all over the ground. Water pump is out. drove back to the house and put a new water pump on. I adjusted the kickdown cable for my second gear to last just a lil longer and i went for a test drive to make sure no leaks when It starts to run bad. as you drive 1st gear, its an aod mind you, it winds up to about 2000 rpms and shifts 2nd gear slight acceleration increase with the pedel and the same thing should happen as before but not with this one. It cuts out and backfires through the aircleaner. It just had a complete tune-up just 2 weeks before I bought it cap rotor plugs wires aircleaner I put a fuel filter and it had the oil changed. Does my truck have 2 fuel pumps on it One in the tank and one on my frame rail 1986 bronco 302 fuel injected EB edition 4x4 4 speed aod could one of my fuel pumps be going bad or could I have bought gas with water in it If my ignition module is going bad is there anyway to check it.

92 F-250 with a 460, truck would sputter a little on take off and regain power, did this for a week or so then parked one night when to start it in the morning and it would just crank and not fire up. replaced almost all things but coil with ignition still getting spark and fuel but just wont start up. checked fuel pumps, replaced fuel filter, replaced ignition control mod, replaced pickup coil, no luck! getting some spark from coil wire at the dist. cap, wont start on starting fluid. Any ideas I may have overlooked? P.S. anyone want to buy an F-250? as is?

It all started after I had a new windshield installed, I drove the burb about 1/2 hour after the windshield was installed, turned it off and came back turned the key and the engine stumbled, which it never has, with 111,000 on it. The starter was doing its job just fine, but no fire in the chambers. I immidiately thought of the electronic chromic rear-view mirror, with the compass and temp display maybe causing a problem for the engine, since the mirror was unhooked from its original windshield? But my truck isn't equipped with On*star. So that dashed that theory. I found the Fuel relay in the fuse box under the hood, and wiggled it, and the truck stumbled back to life after i started it again. I bought a new relay, and installed it. no problems for last few hours. I also noticed the Submersible fuel pump in the gas tank is unusually quiet, and is making a low down growl, which is uncommon. I usually can hear the fuel pump whirring inside the tank when I'm at Idle with the windowsopen.
Checked all fuses none were blown. Replanced fuel relay to be on safe side. Also noticed battery was at 11vdc, and I counld not hear the normal whirring of the fuel pump in the gas tank for a few seconds when I turn the key on and off. so I threw a battery charger on it, And the truck sputters to life but the once high pitch whirring from the pump is now a low painful growl, that sometimes varies in pitch from low to moderately higher when I beat on the fuel tank. The fuel filter is only about 3 months. Is it possible there is a restriction that's making the pump work extra hard. Or is the pump about to sputter out completely?
One more thought, the service light hasn't come on at all. Will the light come on every time an error is detected, or will it only come on for a fatal problem like timing etc. Should it come on if there is a fuel problem, or will it store codes without showing a light? thanks
Also noticed a slight, and occasional puff of white smoke out of the tailpipe, which is also unusual for my truck, for it burns virtually no oil, or anti-freeze. I took it out on the open road and it accelerates great with lots of power, but fuel pump still groans in pain.

Ok. It's a '98 vw beetle with a brand new battery and 3/4 tank of gas.

We lost power- one battery cable was very loose so we tightened it. Car would then start but idle with very low RPM and would immediately die if you hit the gas. After a few days of sitting, the engine won't fire and the engine seems to shake the whole car and sputter. We were told that it might be bad gas so we bought dry gas and put it in the tank today---didn't work. Could it be spark plugs? Fuel filter? Something else?

Thanks in advance for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nothing but endless issues with this trucks power train. I bought it one year old and I guess I have been dealt the bad hand on this one. When the truck runs the way it should its great I love it. But as everyone knows with the 6.0L you have more downs that ups, on average.
So over time the crispness when starting my engine has left, If I fire it up and drive until it completely warms up, I won't have any problems getting that crisp firecracker start up.. until the next morning.
Lately first start up of the day is always that rolling cranking start up.
What could have caused this?
What can I do to fix this?
Again, I have heard the old" its a ford" plenty.
It seems that fuel filter housing cap is on securely , and the o ring is in tact and in place. Nothing loose or leaking.

It's a 95 5.7L in a Silverado.

The problem. I put new cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs. I drove it for about 40 miles or so and decided to pull the plugs to see if there was any detonation or flooding of cylinders. Before I explain the problem I will let you know the firing order so I can say what I need to say and it'll make a little more sense.

Drivers side (Left Bank) firing order: 1, 3, 5, 7
Passenger side (Right Bank) order: 2, 4, 6, 8

Okay, I pulled the driver's side plugs first and there seemed like there was carbon on cylinder 1 and a little drop of gas on it as well. So I am thinking that this is just because I'm running a little rich. I thought this from the beginning anyway. Thought the new ignition over haul would have helped. I pulled the other three and it was fine. I found this a little fishy since it's a TBI fuel setup and thought that since all the cylinders *should* be getting the same amount of fuel.

I pulled the passenger side (right bank) plugs and ALL of them had significant carbon build up on them. No oil, just carbon. All except for number 8 (closest to firewall) When I pulled that one it had the carbon build up but it also had oil on the part of plug closes to the plug wire, not actually on the threads.

Does anyone know what is going on? The truck only has 113,000 miles but it did set up for four years before I bought it. Which I won't buy a truck that sit's up for that long again. Always have all kinds of problems. New parts include fuel pump and fuel filter plus the new ignition. Fuel pressure is within specs. 11 psi. Book says for it to be 9-13. If any other information is needed you can email me from my profile. Thanks for any/all help.
Oh, and it does not smoke. None whatsoever.
Oh yeah, one more thing. The O2 sensor is BEFORE the catalytic converter but the catalytic converter has been removed...I know, I'm going to put another one as soon as I can afford it.
Don't know if this will make much difference either but the ignition coil (coming from distributor was not bolted down....

After reading all the answers to my won't start question I was sure it was the fuel pump! So 0. and two hours later the engine fired right up purred like a kitten. I dropped it into gear and blasted down the road for half a block when the engine started to serge then worsen then stopped before I could get it back to the house. Now it won't start unless I spray fuel into it and then it won't run for very long just stops. If I try to step on the gas it bogs and at half throttle it dies quickly not to start again. So only two things left, the inline fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator???? Any one have any other ideas? No I did not buy a fuel pressure gauge.

I4, 5spd, 4x2. Got the truck a few weeks ago and ran fine. Developed a knocking sound which I thought was the throw out bearing going out but that wasnt it. the truck recently died on the side of the highway, we were able to start it again and get it to the gas station, I noticed coolant leaking, there was a lot around the right wheel well. Put some coolant in and got it home, Pulled the radiator out and checked all the hoses, everything turned out fine, seemed like when we died the coolant was leaking from the right bottom side of the radiator( if looking from the driver seat). Checked the oil and the dipstick came back dry, Changed the oil right away and it ran very noice with no smoke, smells or knocks......perfect. This lasted two days until I got in the truck one night after work and it just took a while to get it started, just didnt want to turn over. Kept trying with the throttle open and it fired up. This hard start happens at random but definetely hesitates every time to start. Once running, there is quiet a bit of white smoke from the tail pipe but goes away after 10-15 minutes. I had a car with a complete blown head gasket so it wasnt that much smoke but I would say little more then normal. When driving sometimes it hesitates while accelerating and sometimes it does fine, usually better after its warmed up but still hesitation happens at random.
Some things I found out of place, air filter dirty, moisture around fuel filter, very dirty throttle body and since we replaced the coolant it seems to bubble in the reservoir after shuting off the truck( i didnt "burd the system properly yet)some sort of oily build up on top of the valve cover near the firewall, around the air hose that goes into the valve cover, also there is a vacuum leak, on the driver side near the fender, there is a three way plug, I dont know where the third plug goes, I might just replace it with a straight plug . Where do I start? I will be doing all the work myself but since I recently bought the truck, I havent had the proper time to invest into it. Where do I begin? I really need some professional guidance. BTW, the check engine light is NOT on. Could I have a blown gasket or not?
Also, this is my short list of things to be replaced on my next day off, fuel filter, air filter, water pump, thermostat, drain and refill antifreeze, drain and refill oil, maybe an engine cleaner, thermostat. The temperature gauge keeps going up and down, mostly on the higher side. Oil gauge jumps up and down especially on accelertion

My husband and I bought a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan in February. It only has 53,000 miles on it and it is acting up. It has a hesitation to it, and when I push the gas pedal it back fires. My husband is worried that it is the transmission, but I think that it is either the fuel filter or fuel injector. The check engine light came on, My father-in-law thinks that it is a sensor going bad. What could it possibly be? Do you think that it will be expensive to fix?
We called around and nobody does a free scan. My husband said that we will just have to take it to a dodge dealer and have them scan it. Does anyone know how much it will cost?

I4, 5spd, 4x2. Got the truck a few weeks ago and ran fine. Developed a knocking sound which I thought was the throw out bearing going out but that wasnt it. the truck recently died on the side of the highway, we were able to start it again and get it to the gas station, I noticed coolant leaking, there was a lot around the right wheel well. Put some coolant in and got it home, Pulled the radiator out and checked all the hoses, everything turned out fine, seemed like when we died the coolant was leaking from the right bottom side of the radiator( if looking from the driver seat). Checked the oil and the dipstick came back dry, Changed the oil right away and it ran very noice with no smoke, smells or knocks......perfect. This lasted two days until I got in the truck one night after work and it just took a while to get it started, just didnt want to turn over. Kept trying with the throttle open and it fired up. This hard start happens at random but definetely hesitates every time to start. Once running, there is quiet a bit of white smoke from the tail pipe but goes away after 10-15 minutes. I had a car with a complete blown head gasket so it wasnt that much smoke but I would say little more then normal. When driving sometimes it hesitates while accelerating and sometimes it does fine, usually better after its warmed up but still hesitation happens at random.
Some things I found out of place, air filter dirty, moisture around fuel filter, very dirty throttle body and since we replaced the coolant it seems to bubble in the reservoir after shuting off the truck( i didnt "burd the system properly yet)some sort of oily build up on top of the valve cover near the firewall, around the air hose that goes into the valve cover, also there is a vacuum leak, on the driver side near the fender, there is a three way plug, I dont know where the third plug goes, I might just replace it with a straight plug . Where do I start? I will be doing all the work myself but since I recently bought the truck, I havent had the proper time to invest into it. Where do I begin? I really need some professional guidance. BTW, the check engine light is NOT on. Could I have a blown gasket or not?
Also, this is my short list of things to be replaced on my next day off, fuel filter, air filter, water pump, thermostat, drain and refill antifreeze, drain and refill oil, maybe an engine cleaner, thermostat. The temperature gauge keeps going up and down, mostly on the higher side. Oil gauge jumps up and down especially on accelertion

well i found a cheap truck that i want to buy but it had been sitting for 6 months with an open gas tank. i drained the tank refilled it with gas but broke fuel input on pump assembly. swapped that out with another used one.tried to start but didn't show signs of life. replaced fuel filter and primed motor with gas in the throttle air inlet, it runs for 4 seconds then dies. swapped injector assembly and cleaned head after a while got it to run for 10 seconds poorly without prime. but it was back firing. i had to undo some electrical but i thought it was all back were it belonged i can only hope its he fuel pump because i have eliminated every thing else. is there any thing i have over looked?please help? and i doubt its the computer

i bought a 1986 bronco 2, its a fuel injected 2.9 liter V6....

it will fire when b-12 or ether is sprayed in it...its acting like its not getting fuel...it has 2 fuel pumps the guy who sold it to me hooked both up to a toggle switch...i know that the gas is getting to the fuel rails...im stumped and only have a limited knowledge...this truck has to be running by sunday...or im not going to have a way to work...anyhtin will help...
it crancked until the b 12 ran out...the fuel filter SHOULD be fine...but im not sure...it gets air, spark, just not fuel...i have 2 outta 3...im kinda getting overwhelmed....tell me what you would do if you where me

ive got a 1988 ranger 2.9 with about 95000 miles. when i bought the truck the guy said it had two bad injectors so i did a tune up(plugs where bad and wires has like white dust in the caps) and got a nice looking set off a truck with low miles at pull a part. put them in and the truck ran great. but every once in a while it will miss fire and if you rev it a little it will clear out. what do you all think? the check engine light is on. Doesn't blow any smoke.on a full 20 gallon take it got 167 miles. oh yeah the truck sat for about 3 year but since the the tank has been cleaned and has a new fuel pump in the tank. the old injectors have been clean before i bought it
it has a new tune up on it. its like a 360 turn between what it ran like before i but the other injectors in and after. but its sill miss firing and drinking gas. im thinking fuel filter . no its fuel injection.
idk home many galoons this one has i have a 94 it has a 20 so i was guessing around in there. it has new plugs and wires dis cap rotor button. ive already checked for leaks. its only miss firing every one in a while. havnt changed the fuel filter yet.

I just bought a '99 dodge caravan and it had a problem.

It had a fuel injector malfunction code so the injector was replaced but shortly after it would not start. I did a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap rotor and fuel filter.

Ran like crap.

Took it to a mechanic who said that the injector that had just been replaced was stuck open so I took it back to the shop that replaced the injector.

Halfway to the shop sparks started flying out of the tailpipe and a burst of fire. At which point the engine actually started to run like it had some power.

But, now it smokes and I want some opinions on what may have broken that has caused it to start smoking.

The smoke immediately after the fire incident was black but now it's blowing smoke that looks like oil burning.
The van only has 110,000 miles on it so I don't think the oil burning is age.

Could everyone who answers please cast a vote for:

1. Piston Rings
2. Valve seals
3. Other

I've already asked this once, but I'm hoping to get a concensus so I'm trying again.

I just bought a '99 dodge caravan and it had a problem.

It had a fuel injector malfunction code so the injector was replaced but shortly after it would not start. I did a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap rotor and fuel filter.

Ran like crap.

Took it to a mechanic who said that the injector that had just been replaced was stuck open so I took it back to the shop that replaced the injector.

Halfway to the shop sparks started flying out of the tailpipe and a burst of fire. At which point the engine actually started to run like it had some power.

But, now it smokes and I want some opinions on what may have broken that has caused it to start smoking.

The smoke immediately after the fire incident was black but now it's blowing smoke that looks like oil burning.

The van only has 110,000 miles on it so I don't think the oil burning is age.

Could everyone who answers please cast a vote for:

1. Piston Rings
2. Valve seals
3. Other

I've been having a hell of a time with this es300. I got it in the beginning of march 2009, and since then have had to have the water pump and timing belt and gasket replaced, and then recently, I ran out of gas on the highway and the fuel pump went.

The day the fuel pump before i ran out of gas i had a situation with the car just starting in general. I let it sit for a few minutes then it started. Later I ran out of gas, someone came and hooked me up, it started and I went home. Then a few days later I went out to try to go somewhere and the car just wouldnt start.

I went to a junkyard and pulled a fuel pump, bought a new fuel filter and put all that in. I know the pump works because I can hear it when i put the car into the on position.

Basically, the car cranks, but will not fire at this point. We checked the fuel pressure, its great, then we checked the spark plugs, that doesnt appear to be the problem either. The injector pulse was intermittent, and the spark we got from the plugs are weak.

We are basically at a loss trying to figure out what next to check. We were thinking crankshaft position sensor or the ecm could be bad. We tried to manually get the check engine codes (however at no point before it died did a check engine light come on) and it didnt even blink or anything.

Does ANYONE know what we can do before we go out buying random parts to replace and what possible diagnostics we could run? Or is there something we aren't thinking of?

Note, I also put a new battery in it about a week or two ago. Any advice would grant you title as hero of the day.
all the wiring looks fine, nothings burnt or in bad shape. Whats really raising the red flag is there's no check engine code when we tried to retrieve it. We followed the instructions to jump the terminals in the diagnostic block in the engine compartment but it showed nothing. it didnt even blink and from what we read in the manual it should blink twice a second if there are no engine codes.

How can i test to know whether its cam crank or ecm?
we actually verified the belt isn't broken but havent look at time.

our guess was also possibly the computer but getting to it is a real problem without tearing stuff up a little bit. this car is put together all retarded-like.

I've already asked this once, but I'm hoping to get a concensus so I'm trying again.

I just bought a '99 dodge caravan and it had a problem.

It had a fuel injector malfunction code so the injector was replaced but shortly after it would not start. I did a tune up. Plugs, wires, cap rotor and fuel filter.

Ran like crap.

Took it to a mechanic who said that the injector that had just been replaced was stuck open so I took it back to the shop that replaced the injector.

Halfway to the shop sparks started flying out of the tailpipe and a burst of fire. At which point the engine actually started to run like it had some power.

But, now it smokes and I want some opinions on what may have broken that has caused it to start smoking.

The smoke immediately after the fire incident was black but now it's blowing smoke that looks like oil burning.

The van only has 110,000 miles on it so I don't think the oil burning is age.

Could everyone who answers please cast a vote for:

1. Piston Rings
2. Valve seals
3. Other

I have a 1982 Jeep with an inline 6 that I converted over from asparated carberator to fuel injection using the Howel Engine Development Fuel Injection application. This was done back in 1999. The system has ran flawlessly until resently. My wife was making a run into town and wihile she was setting at a stop light the engine died like it had ran out of gas. The SEC light did not and dose not show any trouble Codes. She added gas and tried a restart. The engine would fire and start but dies right away. I have changed the following items systematiclly to try and remedy the problem. Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, ECM, Starter Solinoid, Distributor Cap, Ignition Coil. I have checked for good Ignition Spark and Fuel Spray at Injectors on intial start, but still have a start/die with no run situation. This is starting to get expensive,What else could it be? Help!

Firstly, I love my Galant, it is a beautiful car and has served me well so far...

...That said, yesterday, while driving home from work the yellow 'check engine' warning light illuminated (I was doing around 40 Mph uphill) then shortly afterwards the engine briefly lost power.

About 5 minutes later (with the light staying on) the engine died completely resulting in me getting to know the side of the road a little better. When I tried to restart, the engine would fire up breifly then promptly die.

After leaving it around 20 minutes I restarted and was able to drive away, around 10 minutes later the light blinked on again and I pulled over, revved the engine highly a couple of times and the light went out. Following that I got the car home keeping the revs high.

It happened again today .... does anyone have any idea as to what could be the cause of this? Suggestions so far have been: Faulty air flow meter, clog in the fuel filter and its knackered mate just buy a ford! Ideas?